Marrakech is a bucket-list travel destination, from jewel-toned tiles and key-holed shaped doorways with ornate wooden carvings, to the magical winding streets of the Medina perpetually buzzing with activity. Saffron and cumin waft in the air from ceramic vessels, tajine, filled with slow-cooked lamb, chicken, or vegetables, intermingled with cinnamon and mint from the delicious displays of traditional pastries and steaming glasses of the country’s famed mint tea.
For me, arriving in Morocco was like stepping into a different world, the culture was so rich, the cities vibrant, and it felt light-years away from nearby Western Europe in the most inspiring way possible. Marrakech boasts loads to do, from historic sites like the Medersa Ben Youssef and the Bahia Palace to the mazelike streets of the Medina, filled with endless displays to handcrafted goods and tchotchkes.
If you only have a long weekend, two full days is the perfect amount of time to get a taste of striking Marrakech (but trust me you’ll leave wanting more). Check out my itinerary for two days exploring the best sights and experiences in Morocco’s Red City.
Arrival into Marrakech
There are several ways to get into the city center and Medina area from the Marrakech International Airport. Tip: take out some cash at the ATMs at the airport; you’ll need it for the bus or taxi.
Taxi
The most straightforward (and expensive) is to take a taxi. There is a small house/kiosk outside of the airport where you can pay for your fare in advance, this prevents any haggling or scamming upon arrival at your destination. We were quoted 150 dirhams (about 15 euros) for a ride to our Airbnb in the Medina, but others have said if you catch a taxi a bit farther outside the airport you can get a better price. Because of the small, winding streets of the Medina, your driver may not be able to drop you off right outside your riad or accommodation, so don’t be alarmed if they stop a few blocks from where you’re staying.
Bus
the most economical option is to take the bus. The buses that leave directly from the airport cost 30 dirhams (about 3 euros) and depart from the rental car parking lot across from the exit at arrivals. The L19 heads toward the center, stopping near the Jemaa el-Fnaa Square, just a 10-20 minute walk to most corners of the Medina.
For penny-pinchers looking for a local experience (like us) walk 10 minutes outside the airport to the main road, R212, to catch the brown and white ALSA buses. These are the standard city buses and only cost 4 dirhams (about 40 cents) for a ticket. Cross the frontage road for the Aeroport bus stop, and catch the L11 or L12, which stop near the Koutoubia Mosque and Jemaa el-Fnaa Square.
Helpful hints:
Cash is king in Marrakech, so be sure to arrive with some or take some out ASAP. The bank Al Barid doesn’t charge fees, so seek out their ATMs for withdrawals. There is one on the Jemaa el-Fnaa Square near the post office, often with a queue (because nobody likes fees), and another close to the train station.
Given it’s a Muslim country, not all restaurants serve alcohol in Marrakech. Those looking to sip a cocktail or crack open a beer should find a bar or restaurant licensed to serve (often hotels will, and those around the Jemaa el-Fnaa Square). La Terrasse des Épices has a lovely rooftop and drinks menu, and La Pergola is also famous for its live jazz music and cocktails.
Safety: Although apprehensive based on other articles from female travelers, I felt incredibly safe during my visit to Marrakech. It likely did help that I was with a man (my partner) the entire visit, but I never felt out of place or unsafe. The city is quite accustomed to foreigners, it is a popular destination for Europeans given its proximity. If you’re on the fence about going, I’d say do it and exercise the normal precautions you would while traveling anywhere.
Day 1: Palaces, walking tours, and rooftop sunsets
Morning
Begin your day with a hearty breakfast of Moroccan bread, spreads, and pastries with a steaming glass of mint tea before heading to the Bahia Palace. This ornate palace garden complex is located in the southern half of the city, near the ruins of Badi Palace.
Bahia Palace
Bahia Palace was constructed in the late 19th century by Si Moussa, the then-grand vizier (like a prime minister/representative) to the sultan. The palace is considered a “grand riad” with a lavish interior garden flanked by some 160 decadent rooms. Bahia is home to splendid architecture, rich tile mosaics, and several exhibits with exquisite furniture. While the architecture is lovely, the rooms are mostly empty, with informational panels for context.
Try to arrive right at the opening at 9:00 am, from 10:00 am to early afternoon the place is chockablock with tour groups. We arrived at 11:00 am and this was a huge mistake, there were so many people it was difficult to move from room to room. Tickets are around 100 dirhams, (you can pay in cash on arrival), or book a guided tour like this one to revel in the history of this iconic space.
Jewish Cemetery
To escape the crowds at Bahia Palace, walk less than 10 minutes to the peaceful Jewish Cemetery. Bahia Palace is just outside the Mellah, (the Jewish quarter) making this the perfect add-on after an exciting visit to the palace. At the entrance, you’re greeted by a guard who will collect your 10-dirham donation and offer men something to cover their heads if they’re not already wearing a hat.
From here, you’re free to roam past the hundreds of raised tombs, their white exteriors almost blinding under the Moroccan sun. The experience is otherworldly, wandering past hundreds of gleaming tombs commemorating the lives of children and adults in complete silence, a stark contrast to the bustling streets outside.
The cemetery also has bathrooms (bonus) which definitely won’t have a line like at Bahia Palace. This is also an opportunity to wash your hands to restore purity, an important ritual when visiting a Jewish cemetery.
Afternoon
Free Walking Tour
I adore free walking tours, they’re the perfect way to get your sea legs when visiting a new city and get local recommendations and insider tips right from the get-go. We took this walking tour, Marrakech Old City Secrets, through Marrakech WITH Locals and had an excellent experience. The tour began at the Jemaa el-Fnaa Square and our witty guide Ismael guided us through the Medina, imparting tidbits of information while keeping us in the shade and off the busiest streets.
We caught a glimpse of the inner workings of daily life for those living in Marrakech, from a family bakery and local Hammam to stunning riads and fountains. He also guided us to the northernmost part of the Medina through the workshops, where the pounding hammers of blacksmiths and whirring sewing machines of leather workers filled the air. I am confident we would have never seen these special corners of the Medina and souks without him, so definitely book a walking tour to fully experience the richness of Marrakech.
Koutoubia Mosque and Gardens
Rising above the hustle and bustle of the Jemaa el-Fnaa Square is the ornate minaret of Koutoubia Mosque. As the largest mosque in Marrakech, it’s one of the most iconic landmarks in the city. While non-Muslims are not permitted to enter, the building is easily admired from the outside, its sandstone walls awash in a golden glow from the Moroccan sun. Those who have spent time in southern Spain may recognize the minaret (tower), which was the inspiration for the bell tower of the Seville Cathedral, La Giralda.
Evening
Sunset at a rooftop bar
The Jemaa el-Fnaa Square is lined by multistory restaurants, perfect for a bird’s-eye view of the absolute chaos happening below and catching a sunset. Check out Cafe de France, while the cuisine isn’t exactly inspiring (nor are the reviews) it has the perfect view over the square for sunset. Climb the staircase up to the third-floor bar (the top floor is for the restaurant only) and grab a table on the deck for optimal sunset viewing over a cafe au lait or mint tea. Watch as the Jemaa el-Fnaa Square comes to life as the sun sinks behind the minaret of Koutoubia Mosque, casting a fiery glow over the “red city.”
Eat and explore at Jemaa el-Fnaa Square
Marrakech’s main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa Square, is a treat for the senses. Weave through the crowds in this bustling central meeting grounds, where the melodic drone of snake charmers fills the air and the scent of cumin and saffron wafts on the breeze. Jemaa el-Fnaa was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, an homage to the preservation of storytelling, music, and folk art here throughout Morocco’s history. The square dates back to the 11th century, when it served as a common ground for traders and travelers to exchange goods with locals from across Africa, Europe, and the Middle East.
The square is still a beacon for travelers and locals to interact, whether through live (and free) musical and dance performances or at the numerous numbered food stalls that populate the center. Sip on fresh pomegranate juice, tuck into a steaming bowl of escargot, or devour grilled lamb skewers. A tip for the food stalls: Dishes you didn’t order may start showing up at your table. While sometimes the host explicitly states they are free (a glass of mint tea or a sample of lamb), they’re often not, so just know if you eat it you’ll be expected to pay for it at the end. If someone drops off a dish you didn’t order, simply return it or leave it untouched, and they’ll clear it away at the end without charging you.
Day 2: Secret gardens, souks, and rooftop dinners
Morning
Medersa Ben Youssef
The Medersa Ben Youssef is one of the most iconic sights in Marrakech and a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded in the 14th century as one of the largest Islamic schools (madrasa) in North Africa, the building is now a historical site in the heart of the Medina. This was my favorite attraction in Marrakech, with colorful tile work, intricate carvings, and stunning wooden ceilings.
The madrasa is organized around a central courtyard and reflecting pool, flanked by students’ quarters, exhibitions, and the poshest bathrooms I have ever seen (absolutely work a bathroom break into your visit). Either arrive early for the opening at 9:00 am or in the evening before closing at 8:00 pm to beat the crowds. Tickets are only 50 dirhams (about 5 euros), paid for in cash at the entrance. For a more immersive experience, book a guided tour (this one also includes the iconic Secret Garden and the Souks).
Le Jardin Secret
Hidden away behind fortified walls on the winding streets of the Medina is the Secret Garden (Le Jardin Secret). The foundation dates back to the 16th century, when the garden was commissioned by Sultan Moulay ‘Abd-Allah, but was sadly destroyed a century later. The garden complex was rebuilt in earnest at the turn of the 20th century, but the project was abandoned until efforts in 2016 restored the site to its former Arab-Andalusian glory.
The complex is divided into two gardens – the exoctic garden and Islamic garden. The smaller exotic garden just past the entrance, populated by species from further afield, and the larger Islamic garden at the back. The Islamic garden is characterized by emerald green tile walkways, gurgling fountains, a central gazebo, a fish pond, and in-ground aqueducts. Lounge under the shade of citrus and olive trees to escape the commotion of the Medina, or sit at one of the cafe’s tables to enjoy a mint tea.
At the back of the garden is the exhibition space and a stairwell to climb on top of the riad’s walls. Atop the walls is another cafe and an exceptional overlook of the garden. For a small fee, you take a guided tour of the tower, the second highest point in Marrakech after the minaret at Koutoubia Mosque. Entry to Le Jardin Secret is 100 dirhams (reduced price for young people, groups, and Moroccan citizens.)
Afternoon
Wander the Medina and Souks
One of the greatest pleasures in Marrakech is wandering the labyrinth-like streets of the Medina, following the twists and turns past displays of glimmering brass and silver jewelry, painted ceramics, and colorful towers of spices. I recommend going wherever your heart takes you and enjoying all the secret corners along the way.
The people in Morocco are some of the kindest and most welcoming I’ve encountered in my travels. However, there are a small number of individuals in the Medina who prey on tourists that are unaware of their surroundings or look lost. Basically, if someone approaches you and tries to “take you” somewhere, decline. You might end up where you want to go (in which case they’ll expect a handsome tip) or end up more lost than before and potentially in an unsafe situation. But outside of the Medina, I’ve only encountered kindness. Also, you can always trust people working in restaurants, grocery stores, official-looking tour guides for help if lost in the Medina. (Just not random men who approach you on the street).
Evening
Have dinner on a rooftop
You simply cannot go to Marrakech without spending an afternoon or evening enjoying the views from one of the city’s many rooftop restaurants. We spent an evening at Le Terrasse des Épices, a multistory restaurant at the heart of the Medina, and enjoyed dessert and drinks illuminated by a sea of rattan lights in their open-air dining room. During the light of day, the top level offers stunning views out over the hustle and bustle of the Medina.
Optional add-on: Casablanca and the Hassan II Mosque
Our return flight left from Casablanca, and we spent about a half day there and overnight. While it pales in comparison to the lively atmosphere of Marrakech, the city’s biggest draw is the massive Hassan II Mosque. While non-Muslim visitors to Morocco are prohibited from entering active mosques, the Hassan II is a notable exception. The complex is modern but sumptuous, the floors and pillars are constructed with local marble, with massive tinkling chandeliers from Murano, Italy. The highlight is a retractable ceiling that opens in 3 minutes, bathing the worship space in natural light.
The mosque was completed in 1993 after six years of construction and is one of the largest in the world. Tours for non-Muslims are conducted between the times of prayer, and tickets can be purchased on-site, or online. Upon entering the mosque you will be instructed to remove your shoes. Women may need to cover their heads with a scarf, although I saw many who didn’t, and nobody seemed to mind. The tour takes about an hour (going with a tour guide is mandatory) and covers the main level, its history, construction, and the ornate ablution rooms below.
While I wasn’t charmed by Casablanca, the Hassan II Mosque is truly incredible and almost warrants a visit to the city just to experience the magnitude of this mosque. Try to visit on a Friday, the most important day to the Islamic faith, when the massive retractable ceiling is likely to be open.
