I spent a long weekend in Normandy to escape the heat and sky-high accommodation prices in Paris, and it ended up being one of my favorite places during my summer of backpacking. Although I was there during summer, the atmosphere was quiet, and I fell in love with the half-timbered houses and rolling pastureland.
France is well-connected by bus and train and easy to get around on a budget. However, if visiting D-Day sites is your aim, you may want to spend the money on a rental to cover the most ground. I was based in Le Havre, a port city almost completely rebuilt after World War II, resulting in distinct modern architecture. Le Havre is just a few hours by bus or train from Paris, and has a plethora of affordable Airbnbs.
Rouen, Normandy’s capital, is also easily accessible by public transport from Paris. This city offers the quintessential winding cobblestone streets and colorful timbered buildings indicative of the Normandy region. Rouen is a bit closer to Paris, but farther from the charming coastal towns of Honfleur and Étretat, making it slightly less convenient to take a day trip out if you’re relying on public transportation. If you’re renting a car, definitely opt to stay in Rouen over Le Havre.
Le Havre
World War II devastated Le Havre, resulting in its complete post-war reconstruction. This modern, concrete city redesigned by Auguste Perret was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2005. Although its architecture is not typical for the Normandy region, it offers seaside charm despite its industrial appearance.
Visit the hilltop Jardins Suspendus (Hanging Gardens) for a verdant oasis with stunning city views. The inner courtyard houses two rows of greenhouses, and the outer bastions boast lovely themed gardens.
Walk the seaside promenade past the quirky Catène de Containers. This double-arched rainbow stack of shipping containers commemorated the city’s 500th anniversary and is now one of its landmarks. End your walk at the Plage du Havre, a wide pebble lined by bars and restaurants and the perfect sunset spot.
Honfleur
Just 30 minutes by bus from Le Havre, this stunning little port city is postcard-perfect and a must-visit in Normandy. Stroll along the storybook Le Vieux Bassin, where austere brown and black houses cram the harbor’s edge, livened by multicolored cafe awnings and crisply painted boats.
Don’t miss the Saturday market during your weekend visit. Vendors selling fresh produce, meats, cheeses, and other artisan goods line the cobbled streets surrounding the square at Église Sainte Catherine. Step inside this massive 15th-century timbered church, and marvel at its expansive interior, erected entirely by shipbuilders.
Stop for breakfast or lunch at Cakes et Gourmandises – Maison Blondel. This charming tea house on the edge of St. Catherine’s Square has a full menu, and a large selection of pastries, premium tea, and coffee (I had the best cappuccino of my life here).
Venture up the hillside to Panorama du Mont-Joli where your climb is rewarded with spectacular city and harbor views. Just nearby is the Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Grâce, an understated sandstone chapel with a whimsical interior. Wooden model ships hang from the ceiling and light pours through the nautical-themed stained-glass windows, an homage to the area’s maritime history,
Wander down to the waterfront for the tranquil Jardin des Personnalités. This beautifully landscaped park pays tribute to the roster of celebrities who have visited or lived in Honfleur. Most notable is a bust of Claude Monet, overlooking a glassy pond populated with his hallmark water lilies.
From Le Havre, catch the bus to Honfleur from the Agence LiA La Station near the Gare du Havre train station. I bought my ticket for a couple of euros inside their office, and the attendants were very kind and helpful. The bus drops you off at Gare Routière de Honfleur, just a few minutes walk to the town center.
Étretat
This stunning coastal village was my inspiration for coming to Normandy. The chalk-white cliffs with sweeping archways, vast pastureland, and the birthplace of Arsène Lupin called my name. Less than an hour’s bus ride from Le Havre, Étretat is a seaside oasis.
Wander through the darling town center past rustic half-timbered buildings, taking in this enchanting village. Browse Le Vieux Marché for traditional (albeit kitschy) regional souvenirs. Stop by the La Rose des Vents for a selection of Norman fine foods, the perfect spot to pick up a picnic spread.
Walk along the esplanade at the Plage d’Étretat, a pebble beach and lively waterfront sandwiched between the iconic cliffs, Falaise d’Amont and Falaise d’Aval. I recommend hiking up either side, along both cliffs for optimal views of the sea and coastline. Be sure to arrive early and beat the crowds. Viewing points are scattered along the cliff walks, affording spectacular vistas that inspired the likes of Monet.
Relax in the long grass for a picnic lunch, taking in the sea air and breathtaking alabaster cliffs. If you’re visiting during summer, return to the beach for a dip in the Atlantic Ocean. I recommend wearing water shoes or sandals, as the beach stones were surprisingly painful to walk on.
Étretat is easily reached from Le Havre by bus #13 (Étretat Gare) from the Le Havre bus station. The ride takes just under an hour, and you’ll disembark at the Mairie stop on Av. George V.