If you’re looking for your next New Zealand roundtrip adventure, look no further than the Catlins. Located along the Southern Scenic Route, a highway that connects Dunedin, Invercargill, Te Anau, and Queenstown, this stretch of coastline offers spectacular scenery and wildlife sightings.
Nestled between Dunedin and Invercargill, the Catlins are renowned for golden beaches, lush rainforests, verdant hillsides, and marine animals. Before leaving the Catlins, boat over to New Zealand’s southernmost point, Steward Island, and revel in its remote, wild beauty.
To inspire your next trip to discover the beauty of the southern coast, I’ve curated my favorite stops for an epic road trip itinerary.
Dunedin
Your gateway to the southern coast in Dunedin, a quirky college town of Māori and Scottish heritage. This hilly port city is the perfect jumping-off point for a road trip along the South Island’s southernmost coast.
The city center has a distinctly European vibe, complete with a stately Edwardian train station, Dunedin Railway Station, and several Gothic churches. Stroll around the Octagon, an aptly named eight-sided plaza, and the city’s central business district, lined with shops and restaurants. The city center features a hodgepodge of street art, and a kaleidoscope of murals by local and international artists decorate the city.
If you’re a world record enthusiast, head over to Baldwin Street, the steepest residential street in the world. Hike to the top of this 350-meter-long street and snap a photo with the characteristic “slanted” houses. For more heights, visit the Signal Hill Lookout for sweeping views of the city and harbor.
If you’re looking for a short trek and escape from the city center, drive 7.5 km to Tunnel Beach. From the car park, the well-formed track weaves along the coast, with lookouts over the sea and rugged coastline. At low ride, venture down a hand-carved 1870s tunnel, to a rocky, secluded beach and enjoy the views of the sandstone cliffs.
Otago Peninsula
Given the southern coast’s rich diversity of wildlife, a visit to the Royal Albatross Center is an absolute must. We spent an evening here to watch the little penguins/kokoroā come ashore for the night, and the experience was nothing short of delightful. Watching these tiny, slate-blue penguins wash up out of the ocean and charge up the beach together towards their burrows was both enthralling and endearing.
There are so many penguins in this reserve that they guarantee a refund if you see less than five during your visit. For more information on the little penguin excursion, visit their website.
The Catlins
Leaving Dunedin, you’ll head an hour south on SH 1 until arriving in Balclutha, a sleepy town with rural American vibes and the gateway to the Catlins. The Catlins are a stretch of land between Balclutha and Invercargill on the South Island’s southeast coast. This area is renowned for its lush rainforests, golden beaches, and diverse wildlife. You can expect to see fur seals, sea lions, and even the elusive, yellow-eyed penguin (hoiho).
Nugget Point Lighthouse
The quaint beach town of Kaka Point is your first taste of the wild and unspoiled beauty of the Catlins. Drive down the coast to Nugget Point Lighthouse and take the short scenic hike to the observation deck. Along your walk, scan the coastline below for wildlife. We spotted fur seal pups playing in the tidepools, and if you pause to take in the scenery, you’re sure to spot something.
At the observation deck, admire the unique rock formations scattered ahead of the lighthouse. Named by Captain Cook for their resemblance to gold nuggets, these “nuggets” rise proudly from the frothy sea with spectacular coastal views to either side.
Nearby the lighthouse is Roaring Bay Penguins and Seals Observatory. A short walk down the track brings you to a hide overlooking the coast. Take a moment to survey the beach for yellow-eyed penguins, the rarest penguins in the world, who nest in this area.
Cannibal and Surat Bays
If you’re keen on a close encounter with some of NZ’s sea lions, drive to Cannibal Bay. At the end of the gravel road with views of rolling hills and pastureland, you’ll find a secluded white sand beach populated by its resident sea lions.
It’s safe to walk across the beach to observe these marine mammals but keep your distance and follow the recommendations on the posted signs. They’re known to chase observers that get too close. At the end of Cannibal Bay is a short track that cuts across the peninsula to Surat Bay. The cut-across only takes 20 minutes and the sandy track is generally easy to follow through the dune grass.
Owaka and Purakaunui Falls
Continuing along the Southern Scenic Route you’ll arrive in the quaint town of Owaka. There are a few cute cafes and gift shops worth a browse, as well as a museum. If you’re looking for advice on exploring the Catlins, (and an array of super cute souvenirs and home goods) head over to the Catlins Country Store. During checkout, the friendly proprietor slapped down a map and gave us his insider tips for exploring this beautiful part of the country, including how to swim with dolphins.
Waterfalls are scattered throughout the lush rainforested areas nestled in the rolling hills and pastureland of the Catlins. For a peasant, short, falls walk just outside of Owaka, visit Purakaunui Falls. Just 20 minutes roundtrip, this walk takes you through dense forest reminiscent of Jurassic Park before descending to an observation deck facing the falls.
Cathedral Caves
For one of the Catlin’s most iconic landmarks, continue south to Cathedral Caves. Not to be confused with Cathedral Cove (read more about this iconic North Island landmark here), these majestic sea caves are open for exploration during low tide. The caves are located on a Māori land trust, and a small fee is charged at the car park ($2 for children, $10 for adults). Hold on to your ticket as it may be checked at the beach.
From the car park, follow the well-maintained trail through verdant bushland to the beach, where you’ll continue left across the sand to the caves. Venture inside these sweeping sandstone archways and admire Mother Nature’s spectacular architecture.
Opening times fluctuate given the weather and tides, so visit their website for updated information on opening times and fees.
Curio and Porpoise Bays
For geology enthusiasts and fossil aficionados, continue along the Southern Scenic Route to Curio Bay. This beach’s crowning glory is a 180-million-year-old Petrified Forest hidden within the sand. This is New Zealand’s only petrified forest (and one of the only in the world you can visit) and can be explored for free by visitors during low tide.
Check out massive petrified wooden trunks and stumps nestled alongside coastal rock and keep an eye out for the yellow-eyed penguins (hoiho) who nest on the beach.
Just next door is Porpoise Bay, a crescent-shaped swath of golden beach home to the world’s smallest dolphins, the Hector’s dolphins. According to the country store owner in Owaka, if you wade out waist-deep in the water at high tide and clack flat stones together underwater, the dolphins will come in to visit. Unfortunately, I didn’t get the chance to test this, as the ocean was rough during our visit, but if you’ve tried it out, please let me know in the comments.
Slope Point
No visit to the Catlins is complete without visiting the southernmost point in New Zealand, (excluding Stewart Island) Slope Point. The road winds through rolling pastureland and past groves of gnarled trees. Beaten down by inclement weather and high winds, these trees bow away from the sea as if Dr. Suess created them.
From the car park, a brief grassy trail leads toward the coast and a yellow road sign proclaiming Slope Point, with the distance to the Equator and (closer) South Pole.
BONUS: Gemstone Beach
Although technically outside the Catlins, I highly recommend visiting this stunning bay west of Invercargill. As its name suggests, this pebble beach features scattered collections of colorful rocks, tumbled smooth by the sea. If you look carefully, you can find several varieties of semi-precious stones, including jasper, granite, and quartz.
I could have easily spent hours on this beach, methodically picking through piles of rocks while listening to waves crash against the shore.
Stewart Island
Before leaving the wild, natural beauty of the Catlins and entering urban Invercargill, you’ll pass through the small, ex-whaling town of Bluff. From Bluff, you can catch a ferry across the unruly Strait of Foveaux to Stewart Island.
This stretch of water is infamously treacherous, and as our captain said, “Wait till we get out there before deciding if you want a tea or coffee.” The crew spent much of the journey passing out sick bags, not making hot drinks at the back bar, while the token local would periodically pipe up, “It’s not so bad today, eh! Usually, it’s far worse.”
Stewart Island is home to only 28 kilometers of paved road, making it better suited to multi-day hikes to explore the island in its full glory. However, if you’re pressed for time, you can see and do plenty during a day trip. In Oban, the island’s only town, stop by Rakiura Jade and step into the gallery and eclectic workshop of Dave Goodin. Peruse his masterfully carved pieces, or even book a class to create a greenstone piece of your own.
Ulva Island
Boat over to Ulva Island for spectacular birdwatching. This predator-free nature reserve is home to a collection of NZ native birds, including the South Island kaka, yellowheads, and New Zealand fantails. Take a tour with Real NZ’s expert guides for an in-depth introduction to the flora and fauna of the island. Or take the water taxi over and explore the trails yourself; keep your eyes on the sky for movements in the trees to spot birds.
Our favorite excursion was an evening kiwi-spotting tour. The tour departs from the Oban ferry terminal with your Real NZ guides and skipper for the Strait of Foveaux. The first hour and a half are spent cruising between islands and rock formations to spot yellow-eyed penguins, baby fur seals, and different sea birds through binoculars.
The tour culminates with a tramp through the bushland, equipped with flashlights, looking for kiwi. Given nearly 20,000 kiwis are living on Steward Island, your chances of spotting one are high.